If you shoot in RAW and you want your photos to look realistic, photo editing is a necessary step in the photographic workflow. Unedited RAW files simply do not look like what you saw with your eyes! For instance, in high-contrast lighting, the human eye can see more detail in the highlights and the shadows – and when faced with colorful subjects, RAW shots just don’t have the same pop as the real-life scene.

That’s where RAW photo editing in Lightroom comes in handy. With a bit of effort, you can balance the light and color to get your photos looking lifelike – so they more closely match the view you experienced.

In this article, I offer five easy tips to ensure you can effectively edit your RAW photos in Lightroom. That way, the next time you capture a batch of RAW files, you know exactly how to process them for outstanding results!

Let’s dive right in.

1. Don’t believe what you see

Many photographers review their images on the camera’s rear LCD screen and find them to be colorful and punchy – but then are confused when the shots look flat and dull on the computer. “What happened to my vibrant, contrasty image?” they ask.

Here’s what’s going on: What you see on your camera screen is a JPEG photo, not a RAW file. The JPEG is automatically processed by your camera to look more true to life, but when you import the RAW image into Lightroom, all your camera’s processing disappears, and you gain access to the original, unaltered file.

Fortunately, this has major benefits. For instance, the JPEG image may show a lack of detail in certain areas – the extreme highlights and shadows – yet the RAW file retains that information. When you process the RAW file in Lightroom, you can carefully tweak the tonal sliders to recover this detail and create a far superior image.

But it’s essential that you account for this when out shooting with your camera. If you want to capture the most detail, spend time understanding precisely how your camera renders JPEGs and RAW files, and know how your camera’s RAW files respond when you post-process them. That way, you can have a sense of what’s achievable when you view the images in the field.

2. Don’t be afraid to use (and make) presets

Lightroom has many presets, which let you make dramatic changes to your shots in a single click. Some of these presets come with the software, while others can be downloaded online and added to your Lightroom collection.

Many presets, when applied, will give your photos a somewhat surreal look. You can create images with cinematic effects, incredible vibrancy, artistic fades, film-like colors, and more. Many of these looks will be gimmicky, but if you put in the effort, you can find presets that will make your images look natural and lifelike.

Spend some time looking through Lightroom’s built-in preset collection. Test out the different options, and see if you can find any you like. As I mentioned above, you can also find presets online, so if you don’t like any of Lightroom’s included offerings, that’s a solid option.

Another approach is to make presets of your own. This isn’t hard to do, and it’s a great way to develop presets that are particular to your editing style.

You can choose presets that look however you like – it’s your photos, after all! – but if you’re looking to make your RAW photos more realistic, then you should be somewhat restrained in your approach. When making your own presets, don’t push the sliders too far, and don’t go for wild color shifts or major tone curve adjustments.

Also, when you develop presets for a natural-looking result, keep in mind how you saw what you photographed. How was the lighting? Was it high or low contrast? Did it have a warm or cold cast? Was it more neutral? What did the colors look like? If you consider the reality of a scene, then you can accurately recreate it during RAW photo editing.

Thinking about what you saw when you were taking your photos will help you create more realistic edits, but it’s not always possible to remember clearly. That’s when you need to think objectively and aim to find a balance in lighting, contrast, and color when you working on editing, as I explain in the next section:

3. Find a balance

As I emphasized in the previous tip, it’s easy to go off the rails when editing RAW photos in Lightroom and end up with highly unrealistic results. Now, a lack of realism isn’t bad if it’s your goal, but most shooters are interested in creating images that accurately reflect how they saw the scene.

Therefore, it’s important that you always think about achieving the right balance when shooting. You generally don’t want to adjust every slider, but should instead focus on using small tweaks to the main sliders until you get a nice result. In Lightroom, the sliders I use most often to achieve a natural effect are:

• Temp
• Exposure
• Highlights
• Shadows
• Blacks

I use the other sliders less often (their use depends on the lighting conditions at the time of capture). At times, I will make alterations to individual colors using the Saturation and Luminance sliders, which you can find in the HSL panel.

Photos taken at different times of the day and night require different edits to suit the lighting. For instance, photos taken on a sunny day will require different editing compared to photos you take when it’s cloudy or indoors. Whether the light is high contrast or low contrast will also make a difference.

I know I mentioned this above, but it bears repeating: Don’t overdo your adjustments. Avoid pushing sliders to their extremes. This will help you achieve a far more realistic outcome. Additionally, once you start maxing out the sliders, you’ll find that image quality begins to deteriorate. Pixelation, banding, and other imperfections will begin to appear, plus you’ll often lose detail in key areas.

4. Adjust the highlights and shadows

Lightroom’s RAW photo editing technology – and RAW photo editing technology in general – has its limits. These depend primarily on the original file; if your RAW shot doesn’t contain detail in the highlights and shadows, you won’t be able to bring it back, even with extensive Lightroom processing.

However, every RAW file contains more detail than might be immediately apparent, and bringing back this detail is essential to creating realistic edits. That’s why I recommend you check the highlights and the shadows of each image, and if you notice a loss of detail, take steps to recover it.

Specifically, bringing down the highlights and boosting the shadows will bring back lost information and make the file look more true to life. You can use Lightroom’s Highlights and Shadows sliders to do this – however, it’s important that you first correct the exposure (using the Exposure slider), or else you may struggle to get a good result.

Here, the histogram is your friend. While there’s no single best histogram, watch for peaks that push up against the sides of the graph (because these indicate a loss of detail!).

And don’t just think about exposure and detail recovery when processing. Make sure that you also get your settings right in the field, and compose your photos carefully so that the contrast range you capture is within the dynamic range of your camera. If you’re faced with very bright and very dark areas in the same frame, you may want to simply recompose.

That said, if you’re in a situation where you desperately want to take the photo but can’t avoid a loss of detail, I’d recommend allowing the highlights to be overexposed while making sure to retain some shadow detail. This mimics how our eyes naturally handle bright lighting conditions; we often can’t see detail on light-colored or very reflective surfaces, but we can see detail in the shadows.

5. Think about Lightroom RAW editing when you take photos

Make sure that your editing process and your shooting process aren’t completely separate. In other words, when you take photos, consider the changes you can make to your RAW images later; that way, you can optimize your settings and your compositions to fit your imagined final shot.

To some, thinking about what you can do in post-production might seem like cheating, but I don’t see it that way. It’s a matter of working with the tools we have available! Modern digital technology gives us opportunities to make photos look more realistic, and you should take advantage of that fact. Knowing how your RAW file can be adjusted later on is a major help, not a harm.

So whenever you head out with your camera, always keep various processing possibilities in the back of your mind. Recognize what detail you can recover and what detail you can’t, and recognize how different RAW files will appear (and how you can adjust them later to create a natural look).

Editing RAW photos in Lightroom: final words

There you have it:

Five key tips to improve your RAW photo editing! I hope you found this article useful; learning to successfully edit your RAW shots is an essential skill, and while it will take time to master, it’s certainly a worthwhile pursuit.

So head into your archives and find some photos to edit. Try to remember how the scene looked when you took the shot, and practice making adjustments so it looks more true to life!

Now over to you:

Do you have any additional tips for RAW editing in Lightroom? What does your workflow look like? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Editing RAW Photos in Lightroom: 5 Essential Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

Talk to an experienced photographer, and they’ll tell you that photography is both incredibly fun and extremely rewarding. When you’re just a beginner, however, it’s easy to become overwhelmed; after all, you have to understand so many details, covering gear, camera settings, post-processing, lighting, and more.

But don’t worry! I’ve been exactly where you are, and in this article, I offer all the beginner photography tips I wish I had when I was starting out. I share plenty of gear advice, I demystify key concepts, and I offer an array of techniques that will ensure your photos improve in leaps and bounds. Specifically, I explain:

• How to buy the right gear
• How to choose the right camera settings
• Where to start with post-processing
• Much, much more!

Are you ready to jumpstart your photography hobby? Let’s dive right in!

1. Research gear (but don’t go overboard)

Your gear does not make you a good photographer.

In fact, if you are just starting out, a top-of-the-line camera will not only be a waste of money, but it will also make your learning process trickier. (Purchasing an expensive camera as a beginner is a bit like buying a race car to learn to drive).

When you want to buy gear – whether it’s your first camera/lens/accessory or your tenth – do your research. It’s helpful to take a look at some photography forums or articles for camera recommendations. Once you find something that sounds viable and fits your budget, read professional and user reviews to determine whether it’ll satisfy your needs. That said, I do have some recommendations:

2. Buy an interchangeable lens camera

You can capture amazing photos with any camera, but certain models will offer greater flexibility (not to mention better image quality). Smartphone cameras and point-and-shoot models are perfectly capable, but they lack one key feature: interchangeable lenses.

You see, DSLRs and mirrorless cameras allow you to swap out various lenses as you shoot, which makes a huge difference, especially if you enjoy photographing multiple subjects. You can use a wide-angle lens to capture a beautiful scenic shot, switch to a telephoto lens to create a tighter composition, then try out a super-telephoto lens for an ultra-close image of a bird as it flies through the landscape.

Of course, each lens does cost money, but there are reasonably priced models designed specifically for beginners. And one of the benefits of interchangeable lens cameras is that you can always upgrade your lenses – while keeping the same camera – as you become more serious.

Which interchangeable lens camera should you buy? The specifics aren’t really important, but you can get great results from an entry-level mirrorless model like the Nikon Z 30, the Sony a6400, or the Canon EOS R50.

3. Use your kit lens often (but upgrade it as needed)

When you purchase an interchangeable lens camera, it will likely come with a zoom lens, which is also referred to as a kit lens. Many serious photographers are critical of kit lenses, but I’d really recommend using your kit model frequently before splurging on additional glass.

For one, kit lenses are designed to handle many different subjects, so you can use one to really explore an array of different photographic genres and techniques. Plus, because kit lenses span commonly used focal lengths – including 28mm, 35mm, and 50mm – you can use a bit of kit lens practice to identify the focal lengths that really feel right to you.

From there, you can make informed decisions about purchasing additional lenses!

4. Consider investing in a tripod

Once you have a camera and a lens, there’s just one more equipment item that I’d urge you to consider: a tripod.

A tripod will keep your camera stable so you can capture sharp photos even in extremely dark conditions. It can be a huge asset in many different photographic genres, including landscape photography, architecture photography, product photography, and wildlife photography.

Now, tripods can be a bit cumbersome to work with, and they’re not right for every photographer. (Street shooting, for instance, is rarely done with a tripod!) But unless you know for certain that you’d never use one, I’d really encourage you to invest in a solid yet lightweight model and see what you think!

5. Take lots of photographs

“Your first ten thousand photographs are your worst.” – Henri Cartier-Bresson

As with any skill, the more you practice, the better you get. So the quickest way to get better? Simply head out with a camera and start taking pictures.

Of course, knowledge does matter, but there’s something essential about holding a camera in your hands, looking through the viewfinder, and considering different compositions. Aim to spend at least a few hours every week behind the lens (and more is better!). It doesn’t necessarily matter what you shoot – as long as you’re shooting, you’re improving.

And don’t beat yourself up if your shots don’t turn out the way you’ve envisioned. Part of photography is about failing repeatedly; over time, you’ll learn how to get the result you want, and you’ll come home with more and more keepers.

6. Read the manual

Camera manuals are quite possibly the most boring thing you have ever read in your life, and reading the camera manual is certainly the most boring thing you’ll ever do in pursuit of photographic improvement.

That said, I suggest you do it anyway.

Why? It’s important to know how your camera actually works, especially in the beginning. And the information will become useful down the line, too. You’ll be out in the field and you’ll want to know how to change a particular setting; if you’ve read the manual thoroughly, you’ll be able to figure it out on the fly. On the other hand, if you haven’t read the manual, you’ll be forced to look up instructions on your phone, and by then your photo opportunity will likely have disappeared.

Of course, you don’t need to read the manual all at once. I recommend you place it where you can push through in small installments while you are killing time, such as in the bathroom, in the car, or in your desk at work.

7. Learn about composition

Composition refers to the way you arrange different elements in your photos. (For instance, do you place your main subject right in the middle of the frame? Do you place it in the corner? Or do you place it somewhere in between?)

And if you can understand how to create balanced compositions, your images will improve in leaps and bounds.

Why? The better your compositions, the more pleasing your images will appear – and the easier it’ll be to capture stunning shots of even the most boring subjects.

One way to delve into composition is through experimentation. Just find a subject (e.g., a flower), then capture lots of images from different positions and evaluate the results. But I’d also recommend reading about the basic composition rules, which will certainly help you successfully frame your shots.

8. Don’t start with workshops

So you’ve got the photography bug. You might be thinking, “Ooh! I’ll sign up to a bunch of workshops; that way, I can improve really fast.”

And workshops are great. But they tend to be geared more toward enthusiasts – photographers who understand the basics and are looking to level up their skills in composition, lighting, and advanced techniques. That’s why I don’t recommend going nuts with workshops right away. Instead, you should really start with the basics:

• How to operate your camera
• The meaning of different photography terminology
• How to determine the proper settings for the situation

Fortunately, you’ve already taken a step in the right direction, because you are currently reading one of the most useful photography sites on the internet. There are more tips and tutorials on this site than you will ever need, especially for a beginner. Once you get the hang of things, then you’ll have a better idea of the type of workshops that would suit you, and you might consider that route.

So I’m not saying that you shouldn’t do a workshop – just that you should wait until you know what suits your needs.

9. Connect with other photographers

Learning photography with others is often invaluable – whether you join an online group or you head to a local camera club.

For one, your photography will progress faster, plus it will be far more fun with the help of your fellow shutterbugs.

Camera clubs often have monthly competitions and may organize photo tours, exhibitions, and other activities. Talking with knowledgeable photographers or even fellow beginners will not only inspire you but also keep you motivated.

Also, sign up to some reputable photography newsletters and Facebook pages, or even reach out to photographers you admire. Most professional photographers don’t mind answering a few questions as long as you are respectful, polite, and don’t demand too much of their time.

10. Try everything

This piece of advice is short and sweet.

While you may have taken up photography with a certain genre or subject in mind, it can be helpful to try all genres. You never know what you might have a knack for, or what you will learn along the way.

So shoot landscapes. Shoot portraits. Head out to the streets and do some urban photography. Find a beautiful flower and photograph close-ups.

You never know; you might find a genre that you absolutely love but hadn’t previously considered.

11. Get feedback

Your friends and family may love you, but they will lie to you about your photography (and they may not even know what to look for). Unless you have a very honest friend or family member who actually knows a bit about art, it’s often more beneficial to get feedback from strangers.

Joining a photo-sharing site where others can comment on your work will get you mostly honest feedback (sometimes brutally so). Years back, I posted the image below on a feedback site. I knew the image had faults, but I was keen to hear what someone else could point out and how they could help me improve.

Well, one fellow submitted a lengthy comment, basically pulling the image apart. He pointed out what seemed like several million faults, and he really went to town on it. But while the comments were painful and borderline unkind, it was useful advice that I could then apply to my next portrait photo shoot.

12. Look at tons of photos

Photography has been around for nearly two centuries, and in that time, practitioners have created billions of images. Many of these photos are bad, but quite a few of them are very good – and by looking at these shots, you can learn from the best of the best.

I’d encourage you to view a handful of photos every single day, no matter what. You can look on Instagram, on a website like 500px, or on photographers’ websites. The key is to find some beautiful images, then spend time absorbing them to the best of your ability. (As you view each file, ask yourself: What makes this shot special? What do I like about it? What do I dislike? How did the photographer use lighting, composition, and other techniques to create a pleasing effect?)

You might also consider heading to your local library and checking out some books created by classic photographers. Sure, viewing contemporary photography is great, but there’s also plenty to be learned from the past!

13. Enter free competitions

If you have money to spend and confidence in your work, by all means, enter some of the big competitions – even as a beginner. You wouldn’t be the first to take a major prize within the first few months of picking up a camera.

Even if you don’t want to spend money to enter competitions, there are plenty of free options. Throw in some images, see how the contest goes, and hey – maybe you’ll win!

14. Test out different lighting scenarios

Lighting is a key component of photography. In fact, lighting can make or break your images, which is why this beginner tip is so important.

When you’re just starting out, it’s essential that you really develop your sense of lighting. In other words, you want to be able to tell the difference between various types of outdoor lighting scenarios and how they affect your photos.

So carefully watch the cloud cover and the time, and make sure you photograph in many different situations. Shoot at dawn and dusk, at high noon, and on heavily overcast days. Then head back home and carefully evaluate the files on your computer. Ask yourself: How does each image look? How do the type and direction of light alter the shadows, the mood, and the effectiveness of each shot?

15. Aim to get off Auto mode

If you really want to be a good photographer, this is vital.

Because while Auto mode is useful enough when you’re just getting started, it’ll eventually hold you back, and it’ll certainly prevent you from realizing your full potential.

You don’t need to rush, though. At first, just enjoy photographing, even if that means using Auto mode all the time.

Then slowly move up the ladder as you familiarize yourself with Program mode, Aperture Priority mode, and eventually Manual mode.

In truth, manual settings aren’t nearly as difficult as some beginners think. It can be a bit like learning to drive. In the beginning, it’ll be challenging to manage gears, indicators, and steering, all while trying not to veer off the road. But with a bit of patience and practice, it’ll become second nature.

(When you are ready to try manual settings, there are plenty of beginner guides and cheat sheets here on dPS!)

16. Get a post-processing program

To become a serious photographer, you’ll eventually need an editing program.

Why? Because these days, editing is an essential part of the photographic process. If you want your photos to look their best, then you must learn to edit.

Which post-processing program is best?

Well, there are free programs such as Darktable and GIMP, which are nice but have their limitations. Then there are the big guns like Photoshop and Lightroom, which can be daunting for beginners. Personally, I recommend just forging ahead with Lightroom; if you intend to eventually get serious with your photography, it’s a hugely useful tool to understand, plus it’s not as difficult as it might initially seem.

Alternatively, you might consider an option such as ON1 Photo RAW or Luminar 4, both of which are slightly more beginner friendly than Lightroom yet pack a lot of power.

17. Have fun

This is the best and most important part of photography:

The enjoyment of it!

Don’t get bogged down by unsuccessful attempts or by comparing yourself to professionals. Even the best photographers in the world were beginners at some point. Just keep taking photographs, keep learning, keep challenging yourself, and above all, keep enjoying the fun you can have with photography!

Photography tips for beginners: final words

Hopefully, you’re now feeling inspired – and you’re ready to continue the learning process.

Photography is an adventure, and it’s a fun one, too. Sure, there will be ups and downs, but in the end, you’ll be glad you persevered!

Now over to you:

Which of these tips do you plan to use first? Do you have any beginner photography tips that we missed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 17 Beginner Photography Tips (How to Get Started) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lea Hawkins.

Coastal landscape photography can result in breathtaking images that feature stunning skies, beautiful water motion, and gorgeous wide-angle vistas; that’s why so many professional landscape shooters love working along the coast.

But photographing coastal landscapes is far from easy. These scenes offer up an array of challenging conditions, including sea spray, high dynamic range lighting, wind, storms, and so much more. Unless you know the right techniques, you’ll end up with blurry, poorly exposed shots that don’t look anything like the refined photos that you see in professional landscape portfolios.

Below, I share my top seven tips for gorgeous coastal images. I take you through all the key elements, including camera settings, gear, lighting, and composition – so by the time you finish reading, you’ll be ready to head off with your camera and create some incredible files.

Let’s get started.

1. Be there at the right time

While coastal landscape photography can be done at any time of the day or night, if you want great results, I’d recommend shooting during two specific times:

• Golden hour
• Blue hour

The golden hour refers to the hour or two just after sunrise and just before sunset; the low sun emits gorgeous rays of light that make the scene turn golden and beautiful. Plus, golden hour tends to coincide with stunning skies, which is always a great addition to your coastal shots.

Then there’s the blue hour, which is the few minutes before sunrise and after sunset. During the blue hour, the sun is below the horizon but the world isn’t completely dark – and while it can be difficult to perceive with the naked eye, the world tends to look a beautiful, ethereal blue.

You might be wondering: Can’t I shoot coastal scenes during the middle of the day? Unfortunately, midday lighting tends to be quite harsh and unflattering. While you can find softer light on cloudy days, overcast skies tend to look rather flat, so if you want to increase your chances of coming home with keepers, it’s best to stick to the golden hour and the blue hour as described above.

Note that golden hour and blue hour lighting tends to be relatively dim, so you’ll need to take certain steps to prevent camera shake from turning your photos into a mess of blur. Once you have the right gear and use the right techniques, though, you’ll find that dim light is actually a major benefit because it lets you lengthen your shutter speed to create stunning long-exposure effects!

2. Use a tripod (and reduce vibrations)

As I explained in the previous tip, the best time for coastal landscape shooting tends to be early and late in the day when the sun is relatively weak. Additionally, it’s generally a good idea to use a narrow aperture to keep the entire scene in focus.

What does this mean in practical terms? Very little light will be impacting your sensor, so you’ll need to use a slow shutter speed to keep your photos well-exposed. But here’s the problem: The slower the shutter speed, the harder it is to keep your shots sharp. Even the tiniest vibration will cause blur, instantly ruining your images. Therefore, you’ll need to take steps to prevent all types of camera shake.

First and foremost, purchase a sturdy tripod and use it all the time. You won’t be able to keep your shots sharp while handholding, so it’s best to avoid it entirely. Instead, every time you head out to do coastal photography, make sure you work atop that tripod. Note that some tripods are better than others – and as a coastal photographer, you’ll need a decently robust model that can handle heavier winds and rushing water.

Second, shoot in Live View or with a mirrorless camera. It may not seem like a big deal, but a mirror can cause vibrations when it flips up to expose the sensor to light, which can contribute to image blur.

And third: Get your hands away from your camera and tripod when you shoot. Trigger the shutter using a remote release; that way, you can fire off shots from a distance without causing any vibrations when your finger presses the shutter button. (Another option is to use your camera’s 2-second or 10-second self-timer. This strategy does work, but it’s difficult to time your shots when working with moving subjects – such as rushing waves – so I’d really recommend purchasing a remote.)

3. Get the right filters

Every landscape photographer should own a few high-quality filters, all of which will come in handy when shooting on the coast. Specifically, I’d recommend purchasing:

• A neutral density filter. This accessory will reduce the amount of light hitting your camera sensor, allowing you to lengthen the shutter speed even in bright light. It’s essential for scenarios where you want to create a long-exposure effect but the sun is providing too much light for a 10-second, 20-second, or 10-minute shutter speed.
• A circular polarizer filter. Polarizers filter out certain types of light, consequently reducing reflections and increasing color saturation. Not every scene needs a polarizer, but if you want to reduce glints of light on wet rocks or you’re looking to cut down on reflections on the surface of the water, a polarizer will do the trick.
• A graduated neutral density filter (also known as an ND grad). This type of filter is less essential, though many landscape photographers do rely on them pretty heavily. A graduated ND filter will block out light from a portion of the scene, which comes in handy if you’re shooting a vista with a bright sky and a darker foreground. By positioning the ND grad so it reduces light from the sky while leaving the foreground untouched, you can get an even exposure that includes plenty of detail in the highlights and shadows. However, it’s also possible to handle this challenge via HDR bracketing and processing techniques, which is a highly effective alternative to graduated ND filters.

Note that you can find plenty of cheap filters online, but these budget options tend to perform rather poorly. Make sure you purchase well-made glass that will improve your images!

4. Include foreground interest

Coastal scenes often feature gorgeous backgrounds – but while bright colors and cotton-candy clouds are important, it’s also important that you capture compositions that draw the viewer in and keep them engaged.

In other words, don’t just point your camera at the coast and start snapping away. Spend some time carefully identifying powerful compositions, the kind that compels the viewer to really lose themselves in the scene.

A great technique to level up your coastal compositions involves incorporating foreground interest in the shot. Basically, you include plenty of beauty in the background (e.g., a stunning sky and a breathtaking horizon), but you also make sure to put an element or two in the foreground, such as wet rocks, patterns in the sand, or even a wave rushing forward.

When you’re just getting started with this type of composition, you may struggle to find foreground interest, but in my experience, a little scouting around a location will turn up all sorts of opportunities! It can help to arrive a few hours early and spend some time walking around. You might even take a few snaps of potential foreground elements with your smartphone, which you can then use as a reference when the light gets good.

One tip here is to get low over the foreground element. It’ll loom large in the frame, creating a real sense of depth (see the image below). But be careful; you don’t want your camera or lens to get splashed by a wave!

5. Experiment with different shutter speeds

Nearly every coastal scene includes moving water, which means you have all sorts of opportunities for artistic long-exposure effects. However, every shutter speed will give a slightly different result, especially when combined with water moving at different rates.

So each time you’re faced with a new scene, I highly recommend testing out a handful of different shutter speeds. Try a faster shutter speed that will potentially freeze the water and show its texture. Then try a slow shutter speed that will produce a blurry subject that still has some definition. Finally, test out an ultra-long shutter that will create a misty, ethereal effect:

Remember that your shutter speed, in addition to determining the appearance of moving water, will also influence the exposure. The slower the shutter speed, the more light that will hit the sensor and the brighter the shot will appear, so you’ll need to balance out the exposure by adjusting the ISO and the aperture. (And if you need to lengthen the shutter speed without further brightening the shot, you can also use a neutral density filter, as discussed above.)

6. Try a black-and-white conversion

Photographers are often drawn to coastal landscapes due to their magnificent colors at sunrise and sunset – but you can also create amazing results with a bit of black-and-white magic. A black-and-white conversion will emphasize contrast and can look especially great when combined with long-exposure motion blur, like this:

Note how the monochrome also adds a beautiful moodiness to the shot, which can work well when the sky is somewhat boring (i.e., on more overcast days). Black and white can also work great if you’re forced to shoot when the sun is high in the sky; the harsh shadows can look rather interesting when the color is stripped away.

And thanks to modern digital processing techniques, you don’t need to decide in advance whether an image is in color or black and white. You can simply shoot in color, import your photos into an editing program, and have fun testing out different black-and-white conversions. (That said, if you head into a coastal photoshoot knowing that you want to capture a black-and-white shot, the results will often be better.)

7. Turn around

This coastal landscape photography tip is quick but essential. You see, at popular photography locations at sunrise and sunset, folks tend to point their cameras in one direction: toward the sun. And they shoot in the direction of the sun the entire time, never thinking to look behind them!

The truth is that you can often find amazing light in every direction, and the area directly behind you (or off to one side) may offer lots of potential for gorgeous landscape photography.

So before you start shooting, take stock of the entire scene. Make sure you choose the best direction – and then, as the sun sinks below the horizon, keep an eye on the entire sky, not just the area in front of your camera. You never know how the sky will change, and you don’t want to miss an amazing opportunity simply because you were focused on a single part of the sky!

Coastal landscape photography: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you should be well-equipped to capture some beautiful coastal landscapes.

Just remember to carry the right accessories, keep your camera as stable as possible, and to shoot at the right time of day. With a little bit of practice, you’ll be creating amazing shots in no time at all.

So pick a coastal location. Pack your camera bag. And go take some stunning coastal images!

Rob Wood is the founder of Light Stalking. He recommends you check out “How This Award-Winning Coastal Photograph Was Taken” and this guide to “Landscape Photography for the Serious Amateur“.

The post 7 Coastal Landscape Photography Tips (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Guest Contributor.

Starting a self-portrait project? Want to capture beautiful portrait photos using nothing but a camera, a tripod, and your own ingenuity? Self-portrait photography can be an outstanding creative outlet, and it can be a lot of fun, too. But it can also be very challenging; you have to deal with a variety of factors, including lighting, gear choice, camera settings, composition, and more – and that’s where this article comes in handy.

Below, I share my favorite techniques and secrets for instant success. I also include plenty of self-portrait ideas and examples so you can gain inspiration along the way. Doing self-portrait photography isn’t always easy, especially when you’re just beginning. But as this article shows, once you get the basics down, your images will instantly improve – and you’ll be ready to create bigger, better, and even breathtaking photos.

Let’s get started.

1. Use the right camera and lens

The simplest self-portraits can be captured with a minimalist setup (i.e., a smartphone camera). However, to make things easier on yourself and ensure the highest-quality results, I do have a few additional recommendations.

First, it’s important that you grab an interchangeable lens camera, such as a DSLR or mirrorless model. The specifics aren’t important; you simply want a camera that is capable of high-resolution, tack-sharp images. However, if you’re struggling to choose, consider grabbing a portrait photography camera that offers solid resolution, decent low-light capabilities, and access to plenty of excellent lenses.

Interchangeable lens cameras don’t include built-in lenses, so if you do follow the advice I’ve given above, you’ll need to purchase a lens to mount on your camera body. A good starter lens is a 50mm f/1.8, which is offered by nearly every major camera brand, should be relatively cheap, and offers a very natural perspective. Additionally, thanks to the f/1.8 maximum aperture, you can create stunning background bokeh in your self-portrait shots.

If you’re a fan of wider-angle images – such as full-body shots – you might consider purchasing a 35mm f/1.8 lens instead. And if you think you might want to capture a range of shots at different focal lengths, including wider environmental images and tighter headshots, you could splurge on a 24-70mm f/2.8 zoom, though – fair warning! – it’ll be very expensive.

2. Purchase a tripod and a remote release

If you’re serious about doing self-portrait photography, once you grab a camera and lens, a tripod should be your next purchase. Technically, you can get creative and prop your camera up on a table or some books, but a tripod will make your life so much easier.

What tripod should you buy? If you plan to shoot your self-portraits at night and without strong artificial lighting, then you will want to make sure your tripod is relatively sturdy (especially if you’ll be working outdoors). And if you plan to go for long hikes with your tripod, you’ll want to pick a model that’s lightweight and portable.

However, it’s important that you don’t worry too much about your specific tripod pick. At the end of the day, most decent-quality tripods will do a good job for the average self-portrait shooter. After all, you really just need it to hold your camera while you pose!

At this point, you should have a camera, a lens, and a tripod, which means you can declare your setup complete. But I’d also recommend one more (small) purchase: A remote shutter release. It’ll allow you to fire your camera from a distance using a handheld remote control; that way, you can trigger the shutter as you pose, rather than using the 10-second self-timer and running into position before the camera fires.

Fortunately, remote releases don’t cost much, but they can be an absolute game-changer!

3. Think about the light

Lighting is a key part of all portrait photography, and self-portrait shooting is no exception. If you want to capture great shots, you’ll need to learn to work with the light so you can create various moods and effects.

When you’re just getting started, I’d recommend shooting outdoors or relying on window light. If you’re photographing outside, try heading out on cloudy days or just before the sun sets. That way, you’ll be able to capture soft, flattering images that avoid harsh shadows.

Window light is also nice and often allows for a bit more drama. Experiment by standing near the window and capturing photos with different lighting angles. Notice how your images change as you position yourself so the light streams in from off to the side, from directly in front of you, from behind you, at a 45-degree angle, and so on.

Once you understand the lighting basics, you may wish to invest in a speedlight, a light stand, and maybe a softbox. You can grab the whole setup for around $100 to $200, or you can just grab a flash and a light stand in the $50 to $100 range.

Start by learning the conventional portrait lighting patterns, all of which can look great in self-portraits. Then try to improvise and see what you can create. You can eventually add additional speedlights and modifiers to your lighting kit, which will allow you to create a wide variety of looks (though there is plenty you can do with a single-light setup, so don’t feel you need to rush out and buy multiple flashes immediately!).

Pro tip: If you want to improve your artificial lighting skills fast, consider purchasing a software program that offers tethered shooting, like Lightroom or Capture One. (You might even be able to shoot tethered using software provided by your camera manufacturer.) This simply allows you to see your images on your desktop computer moments after you’ve hit the shutter button, and it’s a great way to inspect the results on a larger screen for technical, compositional, or lighting errors.

4. Use hobbies, interests, and other art to inspire ideas

If you’ve just started capturing self-portraits, you may have a few ideas, but you’re probably struggling to come up with enough inspiration to shoot dozens or hundreds of images. Don’t worry; this happens to pretty much everyone when they begin photographing. Fortunately, developing self-portrait ideas isn’t as hard as you think. You can find inspiration all around. For instance:

• Think about your favorite hobbies. Can you create any self-portraits that rely on its themes or props?
• Identify your interests, be it history, science, mathematics, old architecture, or cars. How can you turn them into self-portraits?

I’d also encourage you to look at other art. Don’t copy, but find inspiration in movies, TV, painting, and even other photography. Every time you see something that interests you, write it down. Pretty soon, you’ll have a long list of possible portraits!

By the way, you don’t have to stick to hobbies, interests, and visual arts. You might think about the settings you pass on the way to work or even your physical characteristics. One of my prominent features is my bald head, so I created a self-portrait that used it to my advantage:

At the end of the day, it’s really all about what you find compelling. Identify that first, then the ideas will flow!

One final note: Self-portraits are generally planned, but they don’t have to be. You might consider walking or driving around with your camera and tripod – in your neighborhood, in a park, or in the nearest city. Just see what you can find!

5. Include a prop (or three)

Self-portrait photography doesn’t need to just be about the self. You can also include various props that add interest, make your shots more complex, and are all-around fun to use.

You don’t want to go prop-crazy – too many items can be highly distracting – but I’d recommend throwing in an element or two when it fits the idea and composition. Here are a few prop ideas, though I certainly encourage you to get creative:

• Hats
• Canes
• Coats
• Balloons
• Pets
• Toys
• Cooking implements
• Sports gear

Note that the best props will add to the portrait without taking attention away from the main subject (i.e., you!). If you’re not sure whether a prop will work, feel free to try it out and see what you think. If you’re not a fan, you can always reshoot!

6. Every self-portrait should have a theme

When you’re just starting out, you may be tempted to set up your camera (and lighting), select a pose, and start shooting. But that will get old very quickly, and even if you take the best self-portraits in the world, you’re going to get bored after a few days.

Instead, use the interests I talked about earlier in the article to create themes. Work with props, backgrounds, and even other people to create images that offer some concept, tell some story, or send a message. It doesn’t have to be serious, either; here, I asked my pregnant wife to participate in a silly self-portrait:

Your theme doesn’t need to be complex, but it should be present. Even a small prop or two can make a big difference.

By the way, a theme doesn’t necessarily need materials. As I discuss later in this article, you can use a specific emotion to anchor the shot, which often relies purely on your acting skills.

7. Don’t forget about the background

Since you’re a self-portrait photographer, you’re probably tempted to focus on the subject and (maybe?) a few props.

But the background matters, too. In fact, a good background will elevate your shot to the next level, while a bad background will relegate it straight to the trash.

Fortunately, once you understand the importance of a good background, it’s easy to incorporate one into your portraits. For instance, a neutral background is a great way to emphasize your subject:

While a black background creates drama and emphasizes emotion:

As you come up with more sophisticated ideas, you might consider adding a colorful backdrop, or even a background that provides context:

If you’d prefer to use natural backdrops (e.g., buildings in the city, trees at the park), you can get great results, but you’ll give up a measure of control. One way to handle a background that looks nice but is a little too distracting is with a long lens and a wide aperture; you’ll get a nice, blurred background that provides some context without overwhelming the viewer.

8. Dress the part

I’ve discussed the importance of themes and props, but I’d also like to direct your attention to clothes, which can add that final touch to an already-strong photo.

Think about your chosen theme, then pick clothing that matches. You don’t need to invent a whole outfit, of course; just determine the parts of your body that will appear in the image and give yourself a quick makeover.

If you really like your idea, you might even consider shopping for clothes at a thrift store. Maybe add an accessory or two, like glasses and a hat.

Also, remember that you’re often playing a part, which means you should do your best to act. You don’t have to give an Oscar-worthy performance, but really give it your all and see how things turn out. If you shoot tethered, you can always check to see whether the acting works or whether you’re better off with a more generic approach. (Alternatively, you can check the back of your LCD screen.)

For this shot, I made sure to wear a brimmed hat and leather gloves, which really created that “farmer” effect:

9. Pay attention to the composition

As you set up each self-portrait shot, make sure you know exactly where the edges of the frame sit – and how you fit within them. This can dramatically affect the overall feel of the shot, and it can be the difference between a great image and a bland one.

For instance, by positioning yourself dead-center in the middle of the frame, you’ll get an intense, in-your-face result – and by standing off to the side, the image will feel more dynamic and less confrontational. I recommend reading up on basic portrait photography composition, but it’s often a good idea to try out a handful of different options and see what you like best.

At the end of the day, each photographer – and each photoshoot – is different. Don’t feel you have to compose your photos a certain way just because it’s what lots of other photographers are doing. There are many ways to create a stunning shot, and you certainly don’t have to follow Instagram trends to get great results.

10. Portray emotion

Want your photos to look boring? Then act boring. After all, the facial and body expressions you convey can massively impact a photo’s tone.

So instead of standing in front of the camera and staring, do what you can to create emotion. I suggest aiming for an over-the-top expression, like this:

In my experience, the more emotion you can show, the better the photo will look.

Of course, this is really all down to personal taste. I’d recommend experimenting with different levels of emotion – subtle, intense, and wild – until you arrive at an effect you like. You don’t need to remain consistent from shot to shot, however; one theme might call for an extreme expression, while another might be better complemented by a milder look.

I’d also recommend you consider your expression in the context of the self-portrait theme. An angry expression may seem out of place when used in a chess photo, while a mild expression might seem confusing if the background is post-apocalyptic.

So once you have your theme, think about expression. Act as best you can. And check your results to see if any adjustments are needed!

Speaking of checking results:

11. Look at your photos

The fastest way to improve your self-portrait photography is by evaluating your work with a critical eye.

So as soon as you finish a shoot (or a few hours afterward, if you want to gain some distance), take a look at your images. Identify what you like about each shot. Identify what you dislike. Then, while the photoshoot is still fresh in your mind, note what you should modify for your next self-portrait.

Pretty soon, you’ll have a sense of what you want to include and exclude from your self-portraits. And you’ll have a little book of lessons learned from each photoshoot.

Of course, if a photo didn’t work, you can always resolve to try again another day. And if it did work, then appreciate the result. Share it with friends. Post it to social media! (Though before you share the image, I’d recommend doing a bit of processing, as I discuss in the next section.)

12. Post-process your self-portraits

Even once you’ve nailed the camera setup, the settings, the lighting, and the composition, you still have one last step in the standard photography workflow: editing.

By subtly adjusting the exposure, the white balance, the contrast, and the colors, you can make your images far more compelling and refined. Pretty much every professional edits their portraits, and if you can learn to do the same, your photos will look that much better.

Grab a subscription (or a trial) to Lightroom, Capture One, ON1 Photo RAW, or Luminar. Then dive in and just experiment with different editing tools and sliders. Focus on the basics, but don’t be afraid to have fun with more complex tools, such as color grading and vignetting. At the same time, don’t go overboard; beginners often crank up the processing, which results in unnatural-looking colors and tones. Have fun, but keep it authentic!

Self-portrait photography tips: final words

Self-portraits are incredibly rewarding, but starting out – developing ideas, selecting gear, working with backgrounds – can be a little daunting. Hopefully, you now feel ready to capture some stunning self-portraits.

So grab a piece of paper. Jot down some ideas. Then have fun shooting!

This article was written by portrait photographer Nathan Marx. To learn more about Nathan, check out his blog.

The post 12 Tips for Self-Portrait Photography (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Guest Contributor.

If you’re struggling to capture consistently great images or you just want to hone your skills, then I highly recommend you try some simple photography exercises. Photo exercises aren’t difficult to do, yet spending a few minutes each day carrying out a handful of exercises can make a dramatic difference to your shots.

In this article, I share my favorite seven exercises, all of which are designed to enhance some part of your photographic practice (whether it’s your sense of lighting, composition, camera settings, or editing). There’s no need to go overboard and spend hours each day running through the entire list, but if you can find the time to do one or two on a regular basis, I guarantee you’ll see some major improvements to your images.

Ready to start leveling up your shots? Then let’s dive right in, starting with:

1. Shoot a single subject from nine different angles

Your first photography exercise – and my personal favorite – is to choose just one subject, then shoot it from at least nine different angles.

In searching for angles, you’ll be forced to stretch the boundaries of your creativity. You’ll be forced to start looking at your subjects in many different ways. The first five angles might be easy enough to find. But the last four will be a struggle – as they should be!

(Does it have to be nine specifically? No, though it’s important that you challenge yourself here; don’t just shoot from two angles and call it a day.)

A few excellent angles to try:

• Shoot on a level with your subject
• Shoot from directly above your subject (if you can)
• Get below your subject and shoot upward
• Walk around your subject until you have a completely different perspective

Then, once you’ve finished the exercise, pull up the photos on your computer. Take note of the different angles and how they gave your subject slightly different looks.

And the next time you’re doing photography, see if you can incorporate those new angles into your compositions!

2. Shoot a subject you normally avoid

This exercise is all about getting you out of your comfort zone. After all, if you don’t get out of your comfort zone, you’ll never grow as a photographer.

So here’s what you do:

Think about the subjects that you normally shoot. And then pick a subject that’s radically different. Photograph it instead!

So if you normally like to capture birds, shoot flowers for a day.

If you normally photograph landscapes, shoot wildlife.

If you normally shoot portraits, try capturing some cityscapes. Just pick something that you don’t normally photograph, then do your best to make it look amazing!

If you want to make this exercise extra useful, don’t just shoot another subject for a single outing. Instead, do it for a week (or even a month). You’ll be amazed by the tricks you pick up from learning another area of photography.

3. Bring just one lens into the field

When photographers go out for a photoshoot, they tend to take multiple lenses (and even multiple cameras). And while this will give you a lot of flexibility, it won’t force you to really work to find great compositions.

But I want you to think outside the box. I want you to consider new ways to capture photos. So the next time you go out to shoot, leave all your standard lenses behind.

Instead, bring just one lens. And (if you’re feeling adventurous) make sure it’s a lens that you don’t use very often. Prime lenses are generally best for this exercise, as they’ll force you to adapt to a single focal length. But you can also use a zoom (though if you do go this route, you might try restricting yourself to a single focal length).

This will force you to think about your compositions in new ways, and it’ll help you take photos that you would’ve never even considered.

4. Shoot a scene with four types of light

Photography is all about the light – so if you want to be a great photographer, it’s an element you must learn to master. You need to understand the theory (such as the difference between backlight, front light, and side light, as well as the different types of light and how they change depending on the source), but you also need to understand the practical effects of light. That’s what this exercise is designed to help you do.

You start by picking a scene. Then you photograph that scene with four types of light:

• Cloudy light
• Midday light
• Sunrise/Sunset light
• Shade

This will undoubtedly involve coming back several days in a row, and certain photoshoots might turn out to be a complete bust (because the sun gets blocked by clouds, for instance). But it’ll be worth it in the end.

Of course, once you’re done, you should look at all the photos you took. And note how the different types of light gave you different types of images!

5. Take both still shots and action shots of your subject

Oftentimes, we get in the habit of shooting the same type of subject over and over again. I’ve already given you one way of avoiding this problem (see Exercise 1). But another way is to keep shooting that same subject in a different way.

Specifically, try to take both still and action shots.

For those of you who shoot birds, wildlife, and events, this shouldn’t be too difficult. But if you’re a flower and landscape photographer? It’ll undoubtedly be challenging.

If you generally photograph still subjects, you may have to get creative. Try to take some intentional camera movement photos. Or see if you can get some sort of action to happen in the frame (e.g., flowers blowing in the wind, waves crashing on the beach).

And that’s it! It may seem simple, but the exercise will force you out of your comfort zone and get you taking some fresh photos!

6. Edit your favorite photo in five different ways

Post-processing is a significant part of capturing stunning photos. In fact, even small adjustments can go a long way.

So for this exercise, you should start thinking about different post-processing options. (You can always use Instagram for inspiration.) And edit your favorite image in five distinct ways.

You should experiment with edits in Lightroom, Photoshop, or another high-quality editing program. See what happens when you increase the saturation. See what happens when you drop the contrast.

And try to do some new edits – things you haven’t done before. For instance, try some yellow/blue split toning. Try playing with the HSL options. Try working with the tone curve. You might even try a black-and-white conversion!

Even if you regularly edit your images, when you take the time to really dig in and make adjustments, you might be amazed by what you can do!

7. Take a photo every single day for a month

This last exercise is a classic – but that doesn’t mean it’s any less useful! You see, one of the absolute best ways to improve your photography is to photograph constantly.

(Practice really does make perfect!)

If you take a photo every day, you’ll find that your mind starts to open up. You’ll see photography opportunities that you didn’t even know were there. Your skills will increase rapidly. And you’ll start to take consistently stunning images.

Note that you don’t have to dedicate hours and hours to photography every day. If you have 15 minutes to spare, it can make a big difference.

Photography exercises: final words

Now you know 7 great exercises that are designed to quickly improve your photography skills.

You don’t have to do them all at once. But try them out whenever you can. The more time you can dedicate to the exercises, the better the results.

And you’ll soon be capturing photos like a pro!

Now over to you:

Which of these photography exercises is your favorite? Which will you try first? And do you have any effective exercises of your own? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 7 Photography Exercises to Take Your Images to the Next Level appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

One of the most rewarding types of photography for beginners, hobbyists, and even seasoned professionals is spring landscape photography. As you see flowers blooming, trees budding, grass growing, and animals out and about after a long winter, there’s a sense of incredible vitality – and capturing it all on camera is a lot of fun.

That said, landscape shooting can be both challenging and difficult. These tips will help you maximize your enjoyment while minimizing your frustration – and with a little practice, you’ll be capturing photos that you’ll be proud to share, show off, and even print and hang on your wall.

One of the best things about spring landscape photography is that you don’t need expensive, high-end gear to get great shots. A basic DSLR or mirrorless camera with a kit lens can work great, and even a mobile phone will often yield outstanding results. (Modern phones often use built-in HDR processing, which raises shadow detail without overexposing highlights and makes spring colors look particularly vibrant.) Of course, as with everything photography-related, you can always spend more money if you want, but I have seen wall-sized landscape prints that were taken with the cheapest mobile phones, and they looked fantastic.

Creating top-notch photos often comes down to other, more esoteric elements: understanding light, keeping an eye on composition, and being at the right place at the right time. The best course of action is to simply get out and shoot; don’t let your camera collect dust on the shelf. The more you practice, even if you only use a mobile phone, the more you’ll hone your craft and capture great spring landscape pictures!

1. Look for signs of life

Spring is all about rebirth, renewal, and starting over, which is part of what makes this type of photography so much fun. I would even go so far as to say it’s therapeutic; in other words, getting out in nature as the weather warms and the days lengthen is not only good for your pictures, but it’s also good for your soul. If you can find a way to capture that newness and vitality with your camera, it can dramatically elevate your images.

You can find these signs of life and renewal all around you, even in your own backyard or while walking through a local park. Bugs, baby birds, and even buds on trees will all help showcase the magic of spring, and with your camera by your side, all you have to do is keep a keen eye open and be ready with your finger on the shutter. It might require a bit of patience, but with some care and attention, you can get great landscape shots that showcase springtime in unique and exciting ways.

2. Create a sense of scale

What’s one of the most impactful things you can do to elevate your spring landscape images? Offer your viewers a sense of size and scale.

This isn’t as easy as it sounds, though. If you’ve ever scrolled through your photo library and had the sinking feeling that your beautiful pictures of sweeping vistas just don’t look very impressive, know that you are not alone. It’s not easy to create a sense of scale and help your viewers experience the scene as you did, but there is one simple trick you can try that’ll help enormously.

To help create a sense of scale in your spring landscape photography shots, include something in the frame that serves as a reference point for your viewers. Majestic mountains, sweeping skies, and expansive prairies just don’t carry the same weight in pictures as they do in person – unless you can give your viewers some context that helps them understand the scale of what you’re capturing.

The best way to provide this sense of context is to include objects that are familiar to a broad audience. Vehicles, buildings, animals, people, and even road signs or abandoned farm equipment are all things that’ll help your viewers comprehend the sheer size of the scene you are photographing.

For example, the image of mountains and sky displayed above only works because of the bridge in the center. Without it, people who see the picture would have a difficult time understanding just how large the mountains, trees, and other elements of the landscape composition truly are. But because most people know roughly how big a bridge is, its relatively small size within the frame is a way of illustrating just how massive the rest of the spring nature scene really is.

3. Capture water flowing with a slow shutter speed

Spring is a great time to take photos of water in motion. Rivers, streams, and waterfalls are excellent subjects. However, despite what you might think, a slower shutter can actually produce much better results than a fast shutter. Slowing down your shutter speed turns rushing rapids into silky-smooth works of art that you might see on the cover of nature magazines or adorning the walls of a corporate lobby. Fortunately, it’s easy to get these types of pictures; all it takes is a few basic exposure adjustments.

The trickiest part about using a slow shutter with spring landscape photos is finding ways to reduce the amount of incoming light, especially on sunny days. One way is to stop down the aperture of your lens as far as it will go and set your ISO to 100, but even then you might end up with a shutter speed that is too fast to create beautiful motion trails. If that’s the case, try returning to the spot on a cloudy day, early in the morning, or late in the evening just as the sun is setting to limit the light.

You can also purchase an inexpensive neutral density filter that will screw onto the front of your lens and block out the light so you can use a slower shutter speed even in bright light. Of course, make sure you work with a good tripod, which is a necessity anytime you use a slow shutter.

4. Take the road less traveled

This might seem obvious to seasoned photographers, but for people who are new to spring landscape photography, it’s a tip worth sharing: seek out photo opportunities where you might least expect to find them. Try simple things like going for a walk in a new neighborhood, leaving early for work and traveling on surface streets instead of interstates and highways, or visiting a park, botanic garden, or college campus that you might have seen on a map but never actually photographed.

If you’re planning a road trip, give yourself a few extra hours to seek out dirt roads and two-lane highways en route to your destination. Have your camera handy and be ready to pull over and take some pictures! Even if you aren’t sure you’ll get any good results, it’s better to try than to wonder days or weeks later about the shots that could have been. Many of my favorite spring nature photographs have been taken in these conditions, and you get the added benefit of finding new places to explore that may have been right under your nose.

5. Plan ahead

A little serendipity goes a long way, but the more you practice the art of photography, the more you’ll realize that your best shots almost always involve some degree of planning. While you can certainly get stunning images by accidentally being in the right place at the right time, you will get the most consistent results if you do some homework in advance. Take note of things like sunrise and sunset times, the direction of the light, and even the weather forecast. Then make sure you have the gear you need to get the photos you want!

The picture displayed above – which features a spring sunset – was not the result of random chance. It took careful planning and a great deal of experience, not to mention several failed attempts before I was able to nail the shot. I had to learn what worked and what didn’t work, and I had to understand how to use my camera to get the photo just right. Even the sunburst rays were no accident! I only had a couple of minutes to get the photo, but I’m incredibly proud of the result. With a bit of planning and preparation, you can get similar shots.

6. Put flowers in the foreground

This technique may not get you the most original images, but it works almost every time. Simply include a few flowers in the foreground, which will give your viewers something colorful to focus on while adding a sense of scope and scale.

To get the best results, open your lens aperture as wide as it can go, get low to the ground so you are looking out at the landscape, focus on the flower, and take the shot. It helps if the sun is behind you so your flowers are evenly lit, though it’s also possible to get some creative and interesting results with a bit of backlighting.

While you can’t control every variable every time, it can help to photograph on an overcast day so the sky isn’t blown out. Also, look for compositional elements that can help frame your subject while still conveying a sense of scale. In the image above, which I shot one rainy afternoon in April, I carefully positioned my camera so that a large tree was directly behind the dandelion so the bright white would stand out even more.

7. Wake up early

One of my favorite techniques for great spring landscape photos has more to do with your alarm clock than your camera; simply scope out a good spot during the day, then return to capture the scene as the sunrises. You’ll be amazed at the results you can achieve!

A brief warning: If you’ve never taken pictures like this, you’ll be shocked at how little time you have between the first glint of sun on the horizon and full-on daylight. However, if you’re prepared and ready to go, you can get unique photos that are literally impossible to capture at any other time of day.

8. Use a tripod

When taking pictures of people, animals, or everyday life, a tripod is not all that useful. However, for spring landscape photography, it’s practically a requirement. When working with a tripod, you have much greater flexibility and freedom because it lets you use nearly any aperture and shutter speed combination while keeping your ISO low. Additionally, smaller apertures almost always get sharper images, which often requires a slower shutter speed – which is almost impossible without a tripod.

The nice thing about this technique is that it doesn’t have to be expensive. Of course, you can spend lots of money on a nice travel tripod, but there are plenty of cheaper models – and even models for mobile phones – that work great, too. A simple tripod from your local department store will be enough to tackle most scenarios, and it’ll help you evaluate whether you might wish to eventually upgrade to something more sturdy.

9. Shoot in RAW

If you’re an experienced shooter, you probably already know this one, but beginners might not realize the incredible benefits of shooting in RAW. The enormous amount of data stored in RAW files gives you the flexibility to brighten shadows, salvage color from brightly lit skies, and make images go from average to awesome. All DSLR and mirrorless cameras can shoot in RAW and so can some mobile phones, so if you’ve never tried it before, go ahead and give it a whirl. You might be amazed at what you have been missing out on!

Check out this first image, which is how the unprocessed RAW file looked:

Then check out this next shot, which displays the file after some processing:

RAW is great, but be aware that you might need to bring extra memory cards or sign up for cloud storage if you constantly shoot in RAW. RAW files are much larger than JPEGs (though you can use programs like Rawsie to essentially get the best of both worlds). While I don’t recommend RAW for every occasion – when capturing casual snapshots of friends and family, it can be overkill – but I do strongly advise using the format for spring nature photography.

Spring landscape photography: final words

At the end of the day, the most important technique for capturing great spring landscape photography is to just get out and take some pictures! Try out these tips and refine them with lots of practice; soon, you’ll see your shots transform from mundane to magnificent. It won’t happen overnight, but the more you get out in nature with your camera, the better your results will be.

Now over to you:

What are some of your favorite tips and tricks for great pictures of spring landscapes? Share your ideas and suggestions in the comments below!

The post 9 Tips for Beautiful Spring Landscape Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

Planning a trip or vacation? Want to capture gorgeous, memorable images on your next travel outing? Travel photography is a ton of fun, but it can also be very challenging. You’re in a brand-new environment, you have limited space for gear, you need to figure out how to capture original photos of touristy spots, and you often need to accommodate the needs of other travelers – in other words, you have a lot to think about.

And because many trips are fast-paced, you generally won’t have the time to experiment with various settings, compositions, and lighting techniques. Instead, you need to get your shots right from the very beginning, which can be a tall order, especially if you’re a beginner.

Never fear! I’ve spent years capturing travel shots around the world, and in this article, I share my absolute best tips, including:

• Gear advice to get you started
• The best settings for travel photography
• How to successfully prepare before photographing a new destination
• How to come back with unique photos of popular subjects
• Much more!

By the time you’re finished, you’ll be ready to embark on any adventure with your camera – be it a quick trip to your favorite city or a lengthy vacation to a far-flung part of the globe.

Let’s dive right in.

1. Travel light

Travel photography, by its very nature, is inspirational and exciting. So when packing for a trip, it’s easy to get carried away and end up with multiple camera bodies, handfuls of lenses, a dozen accessories, and more.

But this presents various problems. For one, the more equipment you have, the more you’ll be weighed down when shooting – which will lead to discomfort and a lack of inspiration. Plus, practicalities such as baggage allowance and insurance costs often mean that taking lots of equipment becomes very expensive. (In fact, if you are dead-set on working with more than a minimalist gear setup, it may be cheaper to rent equipment on arrival.)

My advice: travel as light as you can. Pare down your kit until you have:

• One travel camera body (two, if you have room for a spare in your bag)
• A wad of memory cards
• A lightweight mini tripod or even a super-flexible Gorillapod
• A portable storage unit
• A pocket-sized compact camera
• A flash
• A small selection of travel lenses
• A durable camera bag that distributes the weight evenly over your shoulders and protects against heat, cold, sand, and moisture

That way, you’re able to travel comfortably and avoid extra costs. Note that you may want to sacrifice some flexibility in order to cut down on weight (for instance, you might need to leave your super-telephoto lens at home). Just remember that the benefits of traveling light far outweigh the costs!

2. Use a flexible zoom lens

Here’s one of the easiest ways to decrease your gear load when traveling: Do away with your array of lenses and instead carry a single, high-quality zoom.

What kind of zoom is best? I’d recommend purchasing an 18-200mm or a 28-300mm lens, if possible. Really, the focal-length specifics aren’t important; instead, it’s about carrying a lens that shoots at wide, standard, and telephoto focal lengths – so you can capture stunning landscapes, standard portraits, and distant buildings.

And pay attention to the lens’s maximum aperture. The wider the aperture, the better, as it’ll let you capture beautiful images even in low light. (Unfortunately, wide-aperture zooms are bigger, heavier, and more expensive, so you’ll need to think about the aperture very carefully. You don’t want to purchase an all-purpose zoom that actually weighs more than a few small primes.)

If, after packing your all-purpose zoom, you have extra room in your bag, you might also consider taking a small prime lens (such as a 50mm or an 85mm, useful for portraits and low-light photography). And if you’re serious about landscape photography, an ultra-wide lens, such as a 12-24mm, is often a good idea.

3. Take a good travel photography camera

While you can capture great travel shots with any camera – including a basic smartphone – certain models will make it far easier to get consistently outstanding results that you can print large, share on social media, and add to your portfolio.

Now, there’s no one-size-fits-all travel camera, but the best products tend to offer:

• A compact design. As you might have predicted, the smaller and lighter the camera body, the better. Mirrorless models tend to be more compact than DSLRs, and APS-C models tend to be more compact than full-frame models (and Four-Thirds cameras tend to be more compact still). Some full-frame cameras are designed for travel, however, so don’t feel you must stick with a smaller sensor!
• Solid resolution and low-light image quality. Megapixel count isn’t a huge deal these days, especially since most cameras offer at least 20 MP of resolution, but the more pixels you have, the bigger you can print (generally speaking). In other words, if you plan on creating huge travel prints for your living room, you’ll probably want to purchase a higher-resolution camera! Some cameras also offer better high-ISO capabilities than others; the higher the ISO can go without noticeably degrading image quality, the easier it’ll be to shoot indoors, at sunrise/sunset, and at night.
• Reasonably fast autofocus and continuous shooting speeds. If you’ll be shooting any action subjects (such as people and cars moving through the streets or wildlife on the run), you’ll want a camera with decent AF capabilities. You’ll also want to look for a model that offers a fast burst mode so you don’t have to worry about missing split-second moments.
• Good ergonomics. The more comfortable the camera feels, the easier it’ll be to shoot all day! You should also look for handy features such as a fully articulating touchscreen and (on mirrorless cameras) a high-resolution viewfinder.

Unfortunately, the absolute best travel cameras do tend to be on the expensive side, but there are plenty of budget options that’ll still do a great job. You can always start by purchasing an entry-level model; then you can learn how to use it well and upgrade down the line.

4. Use the right shooting modes and settings

Most travel photographers care deeply about image quality, and for good reason: The better the image file, the bigger you can print your images, the more flexibility you have when editing, and the better your images will look in all scenarios. Therefore, I highly recommend you implement a few specific modes and formats when doing travel shooting.

First, make sure your camera is set to RAW. It’ll give you maximum post-processing flexibility, and while RAW files do require editing, the result is worth it. (Not ready to switch directly to RAW? Consider shooting in RAW+JPEG, which produces both types of files each time you hit the shutter. This will give you RAW files for in-depth editing in addition to JPEGs that you can immediately share on social media – though the additional files will take up more space, so make sure you have plenty of memory cards and/or external hard drives on hand.)

Second, get off Auto mode and shoot in Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, or Manual mode. All three of these options will give you control over your camera exposure settings, which is key if you want to capture detailed, creative photos. Aperture Priority is often a good place to start, but if you like the idea of digging in and really understanding all your camera settings, Manual mode is another great option.

Third, adjust your aperture and shutter speed for different creative effects. Aperture heavily influences the depth of field (i.e., the amount of the image that’s in focus); you can create a beautiful background blur by shooting with a shallow depth of field, which can be hugely useful when photographing people or wildlife. Shutter speed adjustments will keep your travel photos sharp, even when capturing action – though you can also slow down the shutter speed to artistically blur moving subjects, such as water and clouds.

5. Take nightly notes

Every night, after a hard day’s work with your camera, take the time to jot down a few notes in a journal about the day’s events. It may sound unusual, but it really does make a difference.

For one, it’ll help you add keywords and descriptions when you organize your images later on. And it’ll help jog your memory months or years later, allowing you to share otherwise-forgotten stories (and the accompanying photos) with friends and family.

Don’t just include notes about events, however. I’d also encourage you to write down any technical or artistic thoughts. After all, if you’re spending hours and hours in the field, you’re bound to enhance your photographic knowledge – of exposure, of composition, of autofocus techniques, and so much more. By taking the time to write down any key realizations, you’ll help cement them in your own mind, and you’ll also create a little reference journal that you can reread (and re-learn from!) years down the line.

6. Give yourself specific times to do photography

If you’re looking to combine travel photography and vacationing – especially if you’re traveling with others – you might run into a problem:

While travel photography is lots of fun, vacationing (e.g., relaxing on the beach, hanging out at the hotel restaurant, etc.) is far easier. If you’re not careful, you may find yourself doing a lot of vacationing and very little picture-taking. Of course, there’s nothing wrong with such an approach if that’s what you want out of the trip, but if your goal is to capture a portfolio of top-notch travel shots, it’s important that you dedicated unbroken stretches of time to serious shooting.

I’d recommend deliberately scheduling photoshoots at certain locations. You can do this mentally (“I’m going to shoot at [specific location] at [specific time”), or you can tell your traveling companions where you plan to be and when. Not only will this ensure that you spend the necessary time working with your camera, but it’ll also help your friends or family members adjust to the realities of travel photography, which can be difficult for a lot of folks.

7. Scout locations in advance

Scouting is an underappreciated and underutilized part of travel photography – but in my view, it’s absolutely essential.

Without scouting, you may never find the best views, the best architecture, and the best street scenes. You may not photograph attractions at the right time of day, either, which means that your photos won’t be as good as they can possibly be.

Of course, when you’re on a trip and you’re crunched for time, scouting may seem impractical, which is why I recommend a scouting approach that relies heavily on pre-trip research. Here’s what you should do:

1. In the months leading up to your trip, do some thorough research on the internet. Everyone’s process is different, but you might consider looking at other photos captured at the location, articles discussing key photography spots, or even satellite images on Google Earth.
2. Make a list of all the key locations you want to photograph. Consider the position of the sun and how it will affect your opportunities. Determine whether each location is best visited at sunrise, sunset, or midday. And feel free to prepare a shot list for on-location use.
3. When you arrive at your destination, consider walking to the local tourist information center. Ask the staff for any recommendations, as they’ve often spent a lot of time on the ground and have likely interacted with plenty of photographers. If you have the time and money, you might even ask whether there are any local guides or fellow photographers who can show you some of the best areas.
4. Finally, use all of your research and planning to tackle each opportunity.

While the scouting approach I share above will certainly work well, if you do happen to have extra time on your trip – especially if the light isn’t cooperating for photography – some in-person scouting can certainly be beneficial. You can always have fun walking to different locations and considering possible shots, which you can use in the days to come.

One caveat, however: You need to be prepared to drop everything and change your approach at a moment’s notice. When traveling, things can happen: the weather might not cooperate, your transportation might fail, or (on a more positive note!) you might run into a better opportunity. Don’t focus so much on your plans that you fail to adapt to real-life conditions.

8. Ask for portraits

We’d all love to grab those beautiful travel portraits – the kind of images that express the subject’s culture and character – but many of us choose to fire off a telephoto shot from across the street out of fear of rejection.

Here’s the thing, though: up-close, personal, intimate portraits are so much better than images taken from a distance. And plenty of people are happy to pose for a moment while you take your shot, provided you ask for permission.

So take a deep breath and just go for it. Say, “Excuse me, could I take your photo?” The worst that could happen is that they decline – which, when you think about it, is not actually that bad. Plus, chances are that they will smile and nod their head in agreement. Then you can capture an image or two.

(If you’re photographing someone who doesn’t speak your language, you can generally catch their attention and just point to your camera.)

By the way, if a person does agree to sit for an image, then be sure to thank them and show them the LCD monitor afterward. You might even take a handful of images, especially if they seem relaxed. But don’t linger. When it’s time to move on, then move on.

One more tip: When you do find someone who’s willing to pose for you, take the time to adjust your camera settings and choose a composition that’ll give you a good result. Make sure you get on their level, use a wider aperture to create background blur (or a narrower aperture to keep the surroundings in focus), and watch out for background distractions.

9. Take proper precautions

Most places are relatively safe. But even the safest places have their rough parts, and you – as a tourist carrying thousands of dollars worth of equipment – are often an ideal target.

So when you’re out shooting, be careful. Always tell someone where you’re headed, never take more gear than is necessary, carefully check your routes in advance, and even as you shoot, pay attention to your surroundings. If you feel uncomfortable in a certain area, then consider moving on.

I also recommend you take certain steps prior to your trip. Take out adequate travel insurance – that way, if you get injured or sick, you won’t have to pay thousands of dollars for medical care. And get an insurance policy on your gear. Some policies even pay for emergency gear rentals in the event that your equipment is stolen.

(Note: Before purchasing travel or gear insurance, be sure to check the policy carefully. You may find that certain activities and situations aren’t covered, such as adventurous activities and gear water damage. The devil is in the details!)

Also, invest in solid luggage locks and maybe even an anti-theft bag (there are plenty of good ones designed specifically for photographers!). And pocket a small amount of local currency in an easy-to-reach place, then keep the rest of your cash elsewhere.

Finally, keep a list of emergency numbers and phrases on your person. It might seem like overkill, but better safe than sorry, right?

10. Think outside the box

Photography is all about creativity. But if you only shoot the obvious travel photography ideas – the kind that you’ll find in any tourist guidebook – then you’re bound to feel uninspired, bored, and (pretty soon) burned out.

Of course, certain views are popular for a reason. They often look strikingly beautiful, and it can be fun to capture your own version of a timeless image, even if it’s not strictly original.

So have your fun. Take the popular shots. But then go farther. Look for unique angles and compositions and lighting. Consider your creative possibilities, such as shallow depth of field effects and even intentional camera movement techniques. Try to see the scene from a perspective that is very you.

My recommendation? Limit yourself to ten safe photos, where you focus on nailing the exposure and other technical qualities. Then unleash your creativity.

A few ideas for original images:

• Shoot from the ground with a wide-angle lens (even if it makes you dirty!)
• Climb some stairs and shoot from above
• Wait for dusk, mount your camera on a tripod, and slow down the shutter speed (to capture a stunning shot full of beautiful light and colors)
• Work on compositions with leading lines, diagonals, and frame-within-a-frame elements

Really, the sky is the limit. It’s art, after all. So flex those artistic muscles!

11. Research your location

Technically, this is part of the scouting process, but it’s so important that I decided to give it a section of its own.

When I say that you should “research,” I’m not just referring to shooting locations, scenic vistas, and so on. I mean that you should really dive into the culture and history of your travel destination. Try to understand what’s unique about the location. Try to understand what living in the location is truly like. Try to understand why the buildings and the landscape look the way they do.

Then use your research to inform your images. If you discover that a certain building has an interesting history, go and photograph it (while paying careful attention to the way the history is expressed through the building). If you discover that a certain location has an unusually robust fishing industry, go and photograph the local workers.

Also, if you haven’t yet booked your travel arrangements, check the local calendar for spiritual or religious events, traditions, national holidays, and cultural celebrations. Then schedule your trip to coincide with one (or more) of these events. Visiting during the right time can offer an astonishing breadth of photographic opportunities, especially if you’re a fan of portrait and documentary images!

12. Post-process your travel photos

Post-processing is an essential part of all forms of photography, and travel shooting is no exception. While you don’t need to spend tons of time on each photo (unless you want to!), you should at least spend a bit of time in Lightroom, Adobe Camera Raw, Capture One, or any other basic RAW processor.

Be sure to correct the white balance, do a bit of distortion correction, and adjust the exposure as needed. Then feel free to experiment with various other options that’ll give your images more pizazz: Crop to improve the composition, add a bit of saturation to make the colors pop, add some Clarity or Texture for improved crispness, and boost the contrast.

Over time, you’ll start to develop an editing style of your own, but when you’re first approaching travel photo editing, just have fun and see what you can create.

13. Do something with the images

So many beautiful images languish on hard drives. They go unshared. They go unviewed. They go unused.

Don’t let your hard work go to waste.

Once you’ve arrived back home after a trip, go through your images. Organize them carefully, find the best shots, and enhance them with editing.

Then consider what to do next. If you’ve bagged some wonderful photos, you could enter a travel photography competition. You might consider uploading the files to a stock site to gain a bit of extra revenue.

You might also use your images as the start of a portfolio, which you can use to approach magazines, travel guides, and tourism websites.

Finally, whether or not you decide to make money off your photos, be sure to share them with family and friends, either in person or on social media. You could even put together a little presentation where you discuss your travels, tell stories, and share your favorite shots.

Travel photography tips: final words

Travel photography may seem like hard work, but it’s a lot of fun, and it can be so rewarding.

So remember these tips. And the next time you go on a vacation, you’ll be guaranteed to capture some stunning photos!

Now over to you:

Which travel tip is your favorite? Which do you plan to follow? And where will you travel next? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 13 Travel Photography Tips for Breathtaking Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Natalie Denton (nee Johnson).

When I first started out in photography, I was told that shooting in RAW was a waste of time. “You won’t need all that information. Shoot in JPEG; it’ll save space.” Unfortunately, that advice, while well-intentioned, wasn’t right for me – and it probably isn’t right for you, either.

Yes, it’s true: JPEGs are far smaller than RAW files (and they require less post-processing work, too). But RAW files come with several outstanding advantages that are especially valuable to landscape photographers. In fact, if you’re a landscape photographer and you’re not shooting in RAW, I encourage you to head over to your camera right now, find the Image Quality setting, and change it to “RAW.” Working this way will be a game-changer, and while you will likely need to grab an external hard drive to handle all those big files, you certainly won’t regret the shift.

Why is RAW so great? In this article, I share my top five reasons why every landscape shooter should work in RAW, starting with:

1. You get extra detail

As I mentioned above, RAW files are bigger than JPEGs. But this isn’t because they contain unnecessary data; instead, it’s because the RAW format doesn’t discard image information that’s captured in the scene. When you shoot a JPEG, however, the JPEG algorithm tries to discard information without changing the way the image looks. That is great for saving space on your memory card, but not so good if you intend to edit your images in Lightroom, Adobe Camera Raw, or other RAW processing software.

The reality is that your camera can capture lots of data that never makes it to the JPEG file – but if you shoot in RAW, you’ll retain the data, which in turn gives you much more flexibility when editing. On average, a normal JPEG file will be a handful of megabytes, but the same image shot on the same camera in 14-bit lossless RAW format will be far, far larger (often 25 MB, 50 MB, or even 125 MB).

While you often won’t notice the loss of data when comparing a RAW file and a JPEG straight-out-of-camera, that extra information often proves critical in post-production. You can get so much detail out of a RAW image – when pulling back blown-out highlights and bringing back detail in the shadows – that would be impossible to recover in JPEG format.

Here’s an underexposed image that I captured in RAW:

And here’s the same image after a bit of tweaking in Adobe Camera Raw, Photoshop’s RAW processor:

This doesn’t mean you should be sloppy and not pay attention to your exposure, but it does mean that in tricky lighting conditions, you will be able to get a shot that’s usable (even without using HDR techniques). And because landscape photography often deals with high dynamic range scenes, a RAW file is often the difference between a keeper and a reject.

2. You have more flexibility with colors

JPEG files save fewer colors than RAW files. Therefore, by shooting in RAW, you’ll capture as much color information as possible – which can then make a big difference when processing your images.

You see, while JPEGs do contain plenty of colors for most scenarios, you may start to notice a banding effect when colors are gradual, such as in a beautiful pink sky. This can become especially noticeable if you try to adjust the colors during post-processing; as you push the colors of that pink sky, banding will become more and more obvious, until your image is unusable.

And if you’re shooting a landscape scene, you undoubtedly want to get as much color information as possible. That way, you can make subtle color adjustments in post-processing, such as color shifts (e.g., turning a blue sky more purple) that help unify the scene and create a refined effect.

Note that RAW files are designed to look rather flat, so it’s important that you do a bit of color adjustment to pretty much every RAW landscape photo that you take. It’s often enough to simply boost the Vibrance or Saturation slider until the scene looks the way you remember it:

3. You can capture cleaner images

The exposure refers to the overall brightness of your scene, and in general, the best exposures feature detailed highlights, midtones, and shadows.

But in recent years, some photographers have started using a technique called expose-to-the-right (ETTR). Basically, by deliberately overexposing your images, you can ensure that as little noise as possible appears in the shadows for the sharpest, cleanest results. (Of course, you won’t want to leave your images overexposed; you’ll need to drop the exposure back down in post-processing!)

Now, the ETTR technique technically works when shooting in RAW or JPEG. However, if you try the technique on a JPEG file, you’ll have far less latitude, and it’s very easy to expose too far to the right and lose key details.

RAW files, on the other hand, handle the technique far better. You can push the exposure further, and once you get back home and process the shots, you’ll have plenty of gorgeous images that are full of beautiful detail!

4. Your images will be future-proof

What’s the best part about RAW files? They give you flexibility. When processing a landscape shot, you’ll have tons of information to work with, and you can use that information to create the best possible image.

Even if you try editing a RAW file and a JPEG file side-by-side and don’t notice a huge difference, it’s difficult to predict the sorts of editing tools that’ll be available down the line (and it’s difficult to predict the editing style that you’ll find interesting in a few years, too). You don’t want to shoot JPEGs because they seem sufficient in 2023, only to realize – five years later – that you could really use some extra detail.

I myself have gone back and reworked older images in light of new editing tools, and because the RAW file had lots of information, the added functions brought out the best of that scene!

5. You get the best quality

Every RAW image must be edited; there’s no way around it. RAW files aren’t displayable on browsers, plus they’re huge and difficult to send over email. Instead of trying to display RAW files, photographers edit in RAW, then convert the image to a JPEG (without destroying the original file!) for sharing.

Therefore, editing a RAW image is a two-step process. The first step is working on it via a RAW processor. (Lightroom can handle RAW images, as does Adobe Camera Raw and many other image editors.)

Then you must convert the file. If you plan to work on it in Photoshop, you can convert it to a PSD – and if you plan to share the photo directly, you can simply convert it to a JPEG.

Personally, I like to work on my images in Photoshop, and it’s only if I’ve first done some RAW processing that I know that I’ll have the best possible image quality to work with. And remember: image quality is basically the holy grail of photography. Ask any photographer what’s most important to them, and it will often just boil down to image quality.

(To be clear, when I say “image quality,” I’m talking about sharpness, noise, dynamic range, color, tone, chromatic aberration, and so on. Anything that adds to the overall look and feel of the image.)

Here’s what I’m getting at: If you carefully work on a RAW file in your RAW processor and then edit it in Photoshop, the image quality will be fantastic if you work carefully in your RAW converter and edit well in Photoshop. You can get good image quality in JPEG, but you will be able to squeeze that much more out of the image if you shoot in RAW.

RAW landscape photography: final words

RAW is a great format to use no matter the type of images you shoot; whether you do fashion, food, architecture, or portrait photography, I’d really recommend considering a RAW workflow. However, RAW is especially essential for landscape photographers. A RAW file will contain key details that you simply cannot recover from a JPEG, which will let you capture sunrises, sunsets, and other high dynamic range scenes in a single shot.

Remember, however, that RAW will require a different post-processing workflow. You can’t upload a RAW file straight to social media – instead, you’ll need to spend time carefully processing each shot. It’s the cost of working in RAW, but the benefits are truly incredible!

If you’re skeptical, why not test it out for yourself? Shoot some high dynamic range scenes as RAWs and JPEGs. Then compare them side by side. Try adjusting different editing sliders and see if you can recover lost details. I bet you’ll be impressed by the RAW files!

Now over to you:

Do you plan to shoot RAW in your landscape photography? Why or why not? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post RAW Landscape Photography: 5 Reasons to Shoot Landscapes in RAW appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Barry J Brady.

Headshot photography is one of the most popular forms of portraiture, and for good reason. Pretty much everyone needs a pro-looking headshot at some point in their lives, whether it’s for a social media profile, a staff page on a business website, or a résumé.

But capturing gorgeous headshots isn’t as easy as it might seem. You need to carefully choose the right settings, determine the proper composition, ensure a beautiful background blur, make sure the subject’s expression looks good – the list goes on.

I’m a veteran headshot photographer, and in this article, I share my top tips for stunning results, including various tricks and techniques I’ve developed through lots of trial and error. I also share plenty of professional examples so you know exactly what to look for. By the time you’re finished reading, you’ll understand precisely how to create a refined headshot, no matter the situation.

Let’s get started.

1. Have a pre-session consultation

There are many different headshot styles – and different models/clients/subjects will need specific stylistic results depending on the headshot purpose. For instance, an artistic, color-graded look might work great for a fashion model but won’t be appreciated by a corporate client.

So before your session, have a sit-down with your subject. Make sure you know exactly how your headshot photograph will be used. You might even ask, point-blank: “What kind of style would you like?” And be prepared to show plenty of examples that convey their options.

This consultation can take place on the phone or face-to-face. I don’t recommend communicating in writing, though; talking to your subject will help them relax much more than an email, and you can use the consultation to help them prepare for the session, too (by explaining what to expect and by answering their questions).

Pro tip: If the headshots will be used for corporate materials, use the consultation to find out your subject’s profession. A corporate lawyer may opt for a clean white background look (above), while a more relaxed professional (e.g., a yoga instructor) may prefer a colorful, environmental image (below).

And an actor or writer may desire the more dramatic effect created by a black background:

2. Help your subject choose the right clothes

Generally speaking, solid, neutral colors work best for headshots, as you want to avoid anything that distracts from people’s faces.

If you’re looking to achieve a formal style, make sure everyone remembers to bring their best work clothes. Men often forget their jackets, so for a consistent look, try to have a spare one on hand, even if you need to clip it at the back. And if possible, send out a reminder the day before your scheduled photo shoot. (Oh, and include an ironing reminder, too – there’s nothing more frustrating than a photo ruined by wrinkled clothes!)

Also, if you’ll have lots of time with a person, get them to bring a few items of clothing. You can do changes throughout the session and provide them with a variety of final images.

Here are some examples of good clothing choices:

Notice how the tops are generally solid in color and relatively plain? That keeps the focus on the subject’s face.

3. Create separation from the background

Great headshot photography generally includes separation between the subject and the background. There should be a clear foreground subject (the head!) and a clear (ideally blurred) background.

The easiest way to achieve this effect is by positioning your subject a handful of feet in front of any background elements, be it trees, grass, a stairwell, a building, or a desk. For indoor portraits, don’t let your subject lean against the wall; instead, bring them out so the wall can blur.

Also, if you are using a studio background (or the wall in an office) and you let your subject get too close, you may see shadows on the wall, which makes the images look less professional. Bottom line: get your subject away from the background, no matter how interesting or nondescript it seems.

You can also enhance the subject-background separation by widening your aperture, which will decrease depth of field to create nice background bokeh. Typically, I aim for an aperture of f/4 for environmental and natural light sessions; the aperture is wide enough for background blur but narrow enough to keep the subject’s head sharp. However, you can always experiment with even wider apertures, such as f/2.8 or even f/1.8. You may struggle to shoot your entire subject in focus, but in the right scenario, this can look great.

(Note: If you’re doing a studio session, with lights and prepared backgrounds, you’ll have more leeway. For such portraits, I often just use an aperture of f/8.)

4. Shoot in Manual mode

If you’re just starting out with headshot photography, you may be tempted to use your camera’s Auto mode – but while such an approach will often get you decent results, if you want to capture consistently great images, I’d really encourage you to use Manual mode instead.

With Manual mode, you can set your aperture, shutter speed, and ISO independently, which means that you can set up your lighting, take a few test shots to set the exposure, and then simply leave your settings as they are for the rest of the session. (Of course, if you change locations or the lighting changes, then you’ll need to set the exposure again!)

That way, you can focus on shooting rather than on tweaking the aperture or shutter speed as you go along. And you’ll finish your shoot confidently – because you’ll know that you consistently nailed the exposure.

5. Give your subjects time to relax

Whether you are photographing headshots for a single person or a whole team, make sure you have a general chat with each person before firing the camera. In my experience, this is the best way to help your subject relax, and relaxation leads to the best images.

Your chat can be pretty quick, too. It can be a 10-second, confident handshake and a “How are you?” Though if you have time, I’d recommend going a little deeper; people generally feel very nervous about having their photograph taken, and talking about something within their comfort zone (where they live, if they have children or pets, etc.) will really help them become more comfortable.

If you’re anxious about interacting with people – or you’re just not sure what to say – try coming up with a few lines in advance. Obviously, you don’t have to stick to your script, but a handful of memorized questions can be the difference between an engaging session and a stiff, uncomfortable one.

6. Ask for silly faces

Here’s one of my favorite tips for taking headshots, and while it’s a little unorthodox, it gets the job done:

Once your subject sits down and you’re ready to take a test shot or two, ask them to pull a funny face. You can shoot it as a first frame. It’s a great way to break the ice, and very few people will refuse to do it.

Once your subject has pulled a silly face, everything else is easy! It’s the technique I used for this headshot photo:

Which then led to this professional result:

Of course, don’t go overboard, and if your subject feels uncomfortable with the idea, don’t push it. The idea is to make them more comfortable, not less!

7. Light like a pro

Lighting is an essential part of professional headshot photography, and you one-hundred percent cannot skimp on your lighting techniques. Lighting should be controlled and carefully positioned. Fortunately, once you know the basics, getting a good, consistent look is actually quite easy.

For business and actors’ headshots, I tend to light quite evenly. There are a few circumstances where the images are low key (i.e., moody with a black background), but for the most part, I like to go for a balanced, detailed effect. A classic beauty lighting setup works well, with one light above and a second light, or a reflector, supplying fill light from below. You can also try positioning your key light slightly off-center to add a bit of definition to your subject’s features.

Ensure the subject’s body is turned 45 degrees away from the camera, while their face remains pointed toward you. You may need to guide people to look straight down the lens. You may be surprised how many people, when left to their own devices, will look off-camera, at the flash, or somewhere random – and it won’t turn out so great!

As you can see from the behind-the-scenes shot below, I’ve asked my subject to turn her body 45 degrees from the camera. (She’s still looking straight into the lens, though!) I’ve added a large light in front (slightly to the left), and I’m using a reflector below her face to reduce harsh shadows. I’ve also included a small softbox behind my subject to separate her hair from the background.

And here’s a headshot example that I captured using a similar setup:

8. Shoot in RAW

If you’re already working in RAW, then you can skip this tip – but if you’re currently working in JPEG, then it’s essential that you read this section carefully.

You see, while JPEG files do come with several advantages – they’re far smaller and require zero processing – these are far outweighed by the disadvantages. Because JPEGs are compressed, they don’t retain all the data from the moment of capture, which means that you lose color information and tonal information when you hit that shutter button.

RAW files, on the other hand, are uncompressed. When you shoot in RAW, the files are a lot larger, but this is because they contain lots of extra information discarded by JPEGs. And it’s this extra information that will allow you to recover detail and adjust colors without issue.

Sure, most of your JPEGs will look pretty good straight out of camera. But what if you accidentally overexpose or underexpose a series of headshots? If you had the RAW file, you would likely manage to recover the lost highlight or shadow detail – but because you’re shooting in JPEG, that information will be lost forever, and your shots will be ruined.

So whatever you do, shoot in RAW! You’ll need to spend a bit of time post-processing the images when you’re done (see the final tip in this article), but I promise that it’ll be worth the extra effort.

9. Sit people down

People often feel more comfortable sitting down, and at the end of the day, comfort is king. Feel free to offer the option of standing, though – people will prefer this on occasion.

Ask your subject to rest their hands on the tops of their thighs (it gives them something to do with their hands!). It also ensures that the subject knows where they need to be and won’t move around too much.

And honestly, it’s pretty tough to tell whether a headshot is taken standing up or sitting down, so don’t stress too much about how either option looks.

10. Pay attention to the little things

What separates a great headshot from an average one are generally very small changes – little adjustments that can make all the difference.

So once you’ve got your lighting set up and your subject relaxed and ready to go, don’t rush. Instead, take the time to make changes: The slight tilt to the head, a subtle lean forward, a gentle but intriguing smile.

Don’t be afraid to ask someone to make very specific changes to their expression and position until you get the image you’re looking for. And once you do have the perfect shot, feel free to experiment a little with poses and even (if you’re not working with a series of clients) lighting. Who knows when you’ll come up with the next great look!

Below is a professional headshot example. Can you spot the little things that make it great?

11. Keep talking and be positive

When you’re taking photographs, talk to your subject. Reassure them that they’re doing it right and that you’re getting great images. It’s hard to do, yes – but it’s worth it because your subject will remain comfortable and you’ll stay on track to get professional headshot results.

In fact, even if you’re not satisfied with the images you’re getting, continue to praise your subject. When your subject turns their head in a certain direction or when the light falls in a bad way, never express those feelings. Instead, tell them they’ve done a great job – then subtly prompt them to make adjustments to their pose.

Bottom line: Silence will kill the atmosphere, so no matter what is happening, just keep chatting. Stay positive!

12. Shoot tethered

This isn’t essential, but if you have all the necessary equipment, I highly recommend you shoot tethered. And if you don’t have all the equipment, consider investing, because tethered shooting can be an absolute game-changer.

Note: Tethered photography involves connecting your camera to your laptop or desktop computer. As soon as you fire off a shot, it’ll appear on your monitor. You can even change your camera settings and hit the shutter button using your computer!

What makes tethering so effective? For one, when your subject can see a couple of shots on the screen, they’ll quickly get an idea of what needs to be changed. And tethered shooting is great for you, the photographer; you can see whether your lighting looks good, whether your subject is in focus, whether they’re nicely posed, etc., much more easily than on your camera’s LCD preview or in the camera viewfinder.

13. Don’t forget to process your photos

Before you post an image online or share it with your clients, make sure you always, always, always spend time editing it in Lightroom, Photoshop, or your program of choice.

While you don’t need to go overboard with post-processing, a little work can go a long way. Make sure you correct the white balance to achieve natural colors, adjust the exposure until you have plenty of nice shadow and highlight detail, and try boosting the contrast for a little extra pop.

You might also add a slight vignette to the headshot to help the viewer focus on the main subject. And if you’re up for it, you can do some higher-level retouching to remove blemishes, whiten teeth, and subtly improve skin.

If you’re feeling intimidated by post-processing software, I’d really encourage you to head into a program and spend some time playing around with different sliders and tools. With enough experimentation, anyone can get great results!

Headshot photography tips: final words

I hope you find these tips for better headshot photos helpful. Commit them to memory, make my suggested changes, and pretty soon, you’ll be capturing pro-level images!

Now over to you:

Do you have any other tips we missed? Please share them – and your favorite headshot photos – in the comments below!

The post 13 Tips for Breathtaking Headshot Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sean Gannon.

There’s been an explosion of interest in costume photography over the last few years. From movie cosplays to historically-inspired portraits, there’s no end to the kind of costumes that need photographing – and these images can inject plenty of variety into any up-and-coming portrait shooter’s portfolio.

Additionally, capturing someone who is playing a role will add a whole new dimension to your images; when people are pretending to be someone else, they often lose their discomfort about being in front of the camera, which can result in surprisingly genuine photos.

But how can you ensure stunning results? In this article, I share my top five tips to create amazing shots. By the time you’ve finished reading, you’ll be ready to capture – and process – beautiful costume photos!

1. Be inspired by history

Since the early days of photography, artists have created portraits based on historical clothing and characters. Julia Margaret Cameron was a 19th-century British photographer who used to shoot people dressed up as characters from Shakespeare, while her contemporary, David Wilkie Wynfield, photographed his friends wearing fancy dress in the style of the great 16th-century Venetian artist, Titian.

So take a look at the work of other photographers and see what you can learn. You might even be inspired by certain costumes, lighting styles, and moods, all of which you can try to incorporate into your own photos.

And don’t just look at photography, either; there are thousands of years of painted portraits to take inspiration from, too. For this next portrait, I was inspired by a da Vinci painting called La Belle Ferronnière:

I’ve also been inspired by other painters; if you’re not sure where to start, try viewing Rembrandt’s portraiture and see if you can recreate the Rembrandt lighting pattern, which tends to look amazing.

By the way, never be afraid to try self-portraiture when you’re experimenting with different lighting techniques and looks. It can take a bit of practice to get a good result, and you can be your own most patient model. The shot above was the result of an hour spent in my studio experimenting with light!

On a related note, most artists of the past used available light, and if you’re generally a flash shooter, costume photography can be a great time to step out of your comfort zone and try something different.

2. Check the costume’s faithfulness

I’m not suggesting that you should obsess over historical or film accuracy in your costume portraits, but it does pay to think through all of the elements that your subject is wearing before capturing the final shot. (You should also check the subject’s surroundings and background; a modern car will certainly look out of place in a Renaissance-type scene!)

In a costume portrait – even more than with a regular portrait – every aspect of the clothing and makeup, as well as any props you add, should contribute to the story being told by the final image. Ideally, nothing should appear in the final image that wasn’t put there intentionally to enhance the narrative.

So if you’re shooting a portrait inspired by a period of history or by a film or comic book, just take a little time to research your inspiration before scheduling a shoot. Check that the costume, accessories, props, and surroundings aren’t going to work against the story you’re trying to tell.

If you’re new to styling portraits, this is where it might be worthwhile to consult a costume designer. Their advice could save you an awful lot of time and heartache in the long run! Of course, there are always opportunities to rent costumes from theatres, too (which can be a surprisingly cost-effective option).

3. Set the scene

Think about the scene that you want your character to inhabit. Do you aim to photograph them as royalty sitting atop a beautiful throne? Or do you want to capture a post-apocalyptic warrior tracking danger in the forest? Scouting out a location and sourcing props to fit the scene can be half of the fun when it comes to staging a costume portrait!

If you’re struggling to identify a good location for your portrait, take a breath. You can often find great opportunities in the most surprising places. I’ve shot in front of huge roller shutter doors on industrial estates, in scrubby bits of forest that came out looking like a dreamy estate, and against an old stone wall in my backyard. With the right lighting, portrait lens selection, framing choices, and post-processing, the most mundane locations can give you precisely the results you’re after.

Of course, you don’t always need to seek out locations; there’s always the option to head into the studio instead. In fact, if you take a subject into the studio and place them against a plain backdrop, the resulting images will often highlight the story you’re trying to tell through their costume and appearance (by putting the focus squarely on the subject).

That said, this style of studio shooting can be a double-edged sword. Given the increased focus on the subject, there is less room for mistakes in controlled studio portraits – but the payoff can be more than worth it!

4. Give your subject a character

When people usually sit for portraits, they play themselves. So when you have someone sit for a costume portrait, it can be helpful to have them play a role. In my experience, this approach can help them get into the right state of mind much more quickly and easily.

So before you do a shoot – while you’re determining the right styling and location – think about the character that you’re looking to capture and write down a few thoughts.

Is your subject a brooding young Victorian poet who lost their love? Or are they an underground rebel trying to uncover a government conspiracy four decades in the future? These details might seem unnecessary, but the character and their motivations are the driving force behind the entire shoot. Do your best to really bring the character to life by fleshing out the relevant backstory, then communicate the narrative to your model.

Once your subject is dressed up, equipped with props, properly briefed, and in your location of choice, all these elements should come together to help them portray the character. It’s their ability to inhabit the role that will shine through, tell the story, and truly make the images portfolio-worthy.

5. Don’t forget about post-processing

You’ve styled an amazing shoot in a fantastically atmospheric location with a great team, and you’ve collaboratively told a compelling story. So what is next? Should you share your images with the world?

Not so fast. Before anyone else sees your photos, you should spend plenty of time post-processing the files. You see, the choices you make on the computer or in the darkroom will really help emphasize the story. In my experience, good post-processing can elevate a portrait to something extraordinary.

But don’t necessarily follow a standard portrait post-processing workflow. You can make stylistic choices that you may wish to avoid when shooting regular headshots or family portraits. For instance, when I capture images with an apocalyptic theme, I tend to add lots of layers over the top to create a grungy look to the piece. And if I’m shooting a character inspired by a sci-fi movie, then I often push the colors to resemble the film grading used by cinematographers. Finally, if I shoot something designed to look medieval, I usually dull all the colors down and make the finished shots look dusty and worn.

With practice, you’ll develop your own style for post-processing costume photography. Just remember: Everything about costume portraits is completely different from how most people approach portrait photography. So view the post-processing stage as a chance to experiment!

Costume photography tips: final words

Now that you’re armed with my top tips for shooting costume portraits, it’s time to take some photos. So start thinking about some images you’d like to create!

Remember to flesh out a backstory, set the scene, and carefully consider every element that you place in the image. That way, you can tell a compelling and consistent story that shines through in the final shot.

Now over to you:

What costume portraits do you plan to capture? Share your thoughts (and images) in the comments below!

The post 5 Tips for Gorgeous Costume Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Charlie Moss.